Mt. Makalu Expedition - 49 Days

About Trip:

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” -John Muir

Well-known as “Makaru” in China, Mount Makalu stands at altitude of 8,485 meters among the Mahalangur Himalayas in Nepal. Mount Makalu is popular among the mountaineers as it is the fifth highest mountain in the world. The first attempt for Mount Makalu was made by an American team led by William Siri in the spring of year 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A team from New Zealand including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse and Chomo. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th. This was an amazing achievement at the time to have the vast majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by 1-2 people at most with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.

 Mount Makalu is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, 19 kilometers southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China. As one of the eight-thousanders, Mount Makalu is an isolated peak with four-sided pyramid shape. Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 kilometers northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 kilometers northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 meters’ saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m).

Mount Makalu expedition takes us to the mixed settlements of Rai and Sherpa people. As we go higher in the altitude we can see Tibetan people and near to the mountain is lesser settlement of people. Buddhism and traditional culture is followed in this region of Nepal.

Even though it’s popular among the mountaineers, Mount Makalu is not so easy either. It is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only 8000 meters peak in Nepal, which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions. This expedition includes beautiful sights of the glaciers, surrounded by the unforgettable presence of the world's mightiest mountains; and gives feeling to the climbers as on the summit of Everest itself. We, the Himalays Traverse Adventure have designed this expedition package for mountaineers all over the World who are up against challenge for 8,000 meters.